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How do I do a track shot like this?

I'm talking about a lens where the barrel and the zoom ring doesn't move during the zoom itself. A cinema zoom doesn't protrude forwards and backwards and move the ring all over the place, which means you can get a nice, smooth zoom, especially with a servo attached.

Using a manual zoom photo lens, means you are completely at the mercy of how smoothly your hands can turn that ring, or pull forward that lens, which means that your zooms are probably going to be the farthest thing from smooth.
If you want jerky zooms, to give a handheld frantic feel to it, then go ahead and do it, but as far as I can gather, you want a really smooth zoom to mimic a technocrane shot, so that's not going to be any good for you.

See how this lens is really big?:
http://www.abelcine.com/store/ARRI-Fujinon-Alura-45-250mm-T2.6-Zoom/

So the optics in the lens itself move as you zoom, but the lens doesn't protrude forwards or backwards. The zoom ring stays in the same place, and you (hopefully) don't get any breathing on your focus pulls
 
Oh okay I see. I'm okay with zooming with the ring, it's just that there is a jerk at the end of each zoom, on my lens, that is hard to to control. I think that dolly idea might be the best way to go. I think I might skip the budget on getting a slider, and just do it with either a steadicam or handheld for shots, where I want to slide the camera. I'll think about it. But the dolly is the best way to go, as long as I got a smooth surface like the table. Is there any good shock absorbing wheels I should go for, to prevent shake? I've been looking but can't tell what the pros and cons are out there.
 
Chopsticks and hair binders... or a longish rod and a radiator clamp to increase the diameter of the zoom ring so that it takes more movement to produce a smaller adjustment will eat up some of that jerkiness at starts and stops... the hair binders will even smooth it out by adding an elastic ramp at the start and stop.
 
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