Glidecam Questions

Sorry for yet another thread. All my new gear at once causes trouble for me hehe.

Today I've been experimenting with a Glidecam HD2000 for the first time, however I can't seem to get smooth shots. Could it possibly be because my Glidecam, camera and lens are too light overall? I've a t2i which is quite light, and my lens is 50mm F1.8 which is one of the lightest lenses, and therefore I can't put any weights at the bottom because it will simple be too heavy and cause imbalance even if I try to adjust the body.
So my question is whether it's simply too hard to get smooth shots with a light cam/lens on a Glidecam or if I just need more practice?
 
Don't fly a 50mm on it, it's too narrow. Glidecams/Steadicams need wide lenses, usually between 18-32mm, most often at 18-24mm.. You should put some weights at the bottom, even just one on each side.

Also it takes practice, a hell of a lot of practice, to be able to be very skilled at using these platforms.
 
Don't fly a 50mm on it, it's too narrow. Glidecams/Steadicams need wide lenses, usually between 18-32mm, most often at 18-24mm.. You should put some weights at the bottom, even just one on each side.

Also it takes practice, a hell of a lot of practice, to be able to be very skilled at using these platforms.

Only problem is that if I put any weights at the bottom I wont have The 3 sec fly. It will be like 0,5 sec.
 
I've only used a steadicam regularly and a Glidecam two or three times, but I'm fairly certain there is meant to bed some weight at the bottom.

Anyway you need to try it with a wider lens to have a more accurate representation. Also try experiment with different settings, there are more variables than just how much weight you put on it
 
First and foremost:

A 50mm is fine on a Steadicam. Technically, you could use whatever lens you want, and I've certainly had Steadiops fly all sorts of lenses for me. The issues arrives when using less than professional gear, and less than experienced operators, which is why many using Glidecams or similar with their own DSLRs or similar will tend to use wider lenses - any imperfections in the operation will be less apparent on a wider lens, plus it will be easier to keep focus without a wireless system.

Secondly, the weight on the bottom of the Steadicam should be counter-balancing - you essentially want the same amount of weight on the bottom as there is on the top.

Thirdly, you want your drop time to be around the 3-second mark.

Lastly, your inability to get smooth shots is most likely due to your inexperience. Both in balancing the rig, and operating the rig. Glidecams aren't great Steadicams, so the issue could, in part, be related to that, however I would say them more experience you have with it, the better your shots will be.
 
Good advice from the other posters.

My advice: use youtube. There are many videos on setting up the glidecam, how to glide etc.

He's one of the many good ones (it has the vest too but ignore that bit):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PzBLOHGhD64

And...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CaFFb-3aUMI
 
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I have a Blackbird Camera Stabilizer, took my quite a few hours to get it balanced correctly. I can re-balance now in under 2-3 mins. In the early days, it was very frustrating.

If you use a zoom, every time you zoom in out out, it will affect the balance - you'll need to re-balance. Hence it's easier using a prime.

As others have said, flying takes a lot of practice too.
 
Thanks for the advice.

I did watch a few tutorials by now, and I haven't managed to do much better. I was trying with a wireless mic body on the t2i for more weight, but it sure takes some practice. I can't seem to get any smooth shots at all, however, it works great as a steadicam for documentarymaking from what I've yet experienced.
 
I can't seem to get any smooth shots at all, however, it works great as a steadicam for documentarymaking from what I've yet experienced.
I can't imagine trying to fly a documentary or anything with long takes ... my arm would give out after 10 minutes with no breaks!

These do take practice in arm motion and walking. The motion is kind of like trying to carry a very full mug of coffee around the room, while walking like Groucho Marx. :)

Okay, that's how I feel while doing it, anyway.
 
I'm actually quite surprised that hardly any of the steady/glide/fly cam tutes I've seen online mention the importance of the walk. They all seem to be about balancing, and then; "hey presto!".

The girl in that first vid was demonstrating an extremely poor walk technique, and it carried across into her (tbh, rather awful) footage. I suspect she may have been struggling with the weight a bit too. I've seen some of her vids before, and none of them have impressed me. She can barely talk the talk, let alone walk the walk (if you'll forgive the pun :D).

I've only recently began my journey into filmaking and videography, but having a fair amount of experience of tactical shooting (I used to run an airsoft site/club), the stalk-walk was instinctive to me, and allowed a near instantaneous learning curve. Even with a shoulder rig I can get smoother shots than some of the steadycam operators i've seen in vids online. I guess like in many fields, there are plenty people that think you can buy into a level of professionalism without actually learning the craft.

I may be wrong with this, as it's a skill I have transferred from elsewhere, but if any of the experienced operators could chip in, that would be great.


The stalkwalk -

Sink your upper body down slightly (for me it's about about 4" or so) by bending the legs. Legs should be bent at the ankle, knees and hips, forming a Z shape. When stalking, you must roll onto and off your feet, walking primarily with your knees rather than plodding down and swaying. It's kind of a cross between a cat's stalk, and a shuffling/cycling motion. This leg motion distributes any impacts as smoothly as possible, and removes the natural gait we normally walk with. The waist therfore stays level rather than twisting and rocking about, and thus the body and shoulders can 'float', providing a very stable and smooth platform for the arms (which further buffer and absorb any final jiggles).

If you do this correctly you should feel your leg muscles doing a lot more work than they would do when walking normally. I'm pretty sure that many of the operators that make steady cam tutorial vids are not doing this, and consequently the entheusiastic amateurs that are looking to buy such a rig are put off by the given product's performance, when in reality I suspect that the person demo'ing thier new toy just doesn't know how to walk properly.

On a slighly different note, could any of the experienced operators here shed some light on the relationship between rig weight and column size please? Do you have any go-to sizes for different rigs or shot requirements? Or maybe you have a preferred column length/gimabal position no matter what?
I've found that there is too much web chatter about the balancing of the gear imo, which makes it hard to find more useful info on the subtleties of the rig when in use, so any tips or insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. :)
 
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Operators I've worked with tend to lengthen the column when working with heavier rigs, as a general note, though it's generally some fine-tweaking of the column in addition to tweaking of everything else when balancing (I've only ever seen large lengthening of the column when we flew an incredibly heavy 435 ES with Lomo lenses).

The walk can be likened to a dance, it's very much a waltz of sorts; feet are generally placed at 45 degree angles from the body.
 
Ok thanks Jax.

The walk can be likened to a dance, it's very much a waltz of sorts; feet are generally placed at 45 degree angles from the body.

Yes, this increase lateral stability, especially when turning/strafing off axis etc. I should've mentioned that I guess. :blush:

Also, do you guys use the cross-leg techique, or is that just asking for cable trips and dropped rigs? :D It's hard to describe, but anyone with any shooting or martial arts training should know what i'm on about. I guess it's not as prevalent in steadycam movement, compared to shoulder mounts, as you can swivel the column of course.
 
Oh, any recommendations as to what length to purchase? Rig weight will vary from about 1-4 kg for the cam and frame/mattbox etc, and another 1-2 kg for a small field monitor and other electronic gubbins (most likely to mounted on the bottom).

They seem to come in 20cm increments, 40/60/80/100/120, with the most common for dslr shooters being the 40/60/80 cm ones.

Lower shooting isnt too much of concern as I get plenty nice enough shots with the hanging tripod method, so the 40 is probably out of the running. I presume the 60 and 80cm ones would be ideal. Longer 1-1.2m would be handy for higher shots, but would the pendulum effect be a bit more of an issue with lighter rigs?

I guess what i'm asking is, what's the ideal ratio between column length and rig weight? (if there even is one)
 
Oh, any recommendations as to what length to purchase? Rig weight will vary from about 1-4 kg for the cam and frame/mattbox etc, and another 1-2 kg for a small field monitor and other electronic gubbins (most likely to mounted on the bottom).
...
I guess what i'm asking is, what's the ideal ratio between column length and rig weight? (if there even is one)
If I understand the question correctly, there are probably tradeoffs... A longer column will have a larger moment arm, which means it can offset more camera weight with similar weights. This will transfer directly to your ability to hold the thing for long periods. Of course, usability will be an issue if it gets too long, and you might run into issues balancing lightweight cameras like a go-pro.

I'm not an expert at flying rigs, having only done it a couple times. Honestly, I need to get more practice.
 
If I understand the question correctly, there are probably tradeoffs... A longer column will have a larger moment arm, which means it can offset more camera weight with similar weights. This will transfer directly to your ability to hold the thing for long periods. Of course, usability will be an issue if it gets too long, and you might run into issues balancing lightweight cameras like a go-pro.

Thanks for the input, Stef. :)

I figured that much too. Obviously it's just the application of simple physics. What I meant by my question, was whether there was an accepted smoothness/handling sweetspot between the weight:column length ratio, or do users just have a preferred size of column based on ergonomic reasons?

Great post A.D. Thanks for sharing that technique.

No probs, IndiePaul. Glad you found it of some help.

I should have also added that a key part of the stalk-walk is the way you roll off your heel, then down the outside edge of your foot to the ball. This practically eliminates all impact, and makes your steps so much smoother and softer, though sturdy boots should ideally be worn to prevent ankle roll of course.


Edit: OK, my question is answered after some more google-fu. There is no sweetspot between size/mass as such, other than ergonmic/stamina considerations. As it stands, the physics don't lie. :P ie The longer the column, the more mass at either end, and the closer the fulcrum is to the center of total mass, the more stable the rig.

TBH I knew that anyway, I guess I was just looking for a reason not to buy/make a bloody massive one. :D
 
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Reading the latest answers a little too late.

As well as IndiePaul I just want to say thanks for sharing the information about the technique! I definitely didn't try to walk that smooth, might do the whole difference. Can't wait to try practicing the technique! :)
 
What an interesting discussion. When balancing an inverted T-shaped device you have to "balance" (forgive the pun) the length of the device with the amount of weight at the bottom. If you have a very light camera setup then you should have a light weight at the bottom and a very short stick length and you can vary the length to get the device balanced. As you add camera weight you have to add counterbalance weight and adjust the overall length to find the sweet spot.

We just launched a much easier to balance prosumer level device via Kickstarter that takes all of this difficulty out of the equation. You can balance in 2-3 minutes the first time and if you change your zoom length you can re-balance in less than 30 seconds.

Please check out our campaig at http://kck.st/1mHYNbs
 
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