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DSLR Nightime Stars Time-Lapse

Hey all. I just got an interval timer for my T2i and have been experimenting with some different settings. Just wondering if anyone else has experience with this process. My main concerns of course have been keeping my ISO low to reduce noise, keeping my shutter speed quick to avoid "moving stars", and finding a low interval so that they move slow in video without being all stop motiony. There's the ideal but whats been some experiences that you've had?
 
I've been having a blast recently with DSLR timelapse. Not as fancy as Phil's material, but good times nonetheless.

Here's a bit of Big Bear, where I've layered all the stills to create trails: https://vimeo.com/54742200

(I've subsequently rotoscoped out all the aeroplane lights)

It definitely takes some trial & error to determine how long/often for the intervalometer, so experiment away! In the link above, the rock cabin was 20-second intervals, and the mountainside was 13-second interval. Both played back at 24fps.

You have any samples to show of what you've done? I love timelapse. :cool:
 
Hi I've always been interested in this too, especially after recently watching this video http://vimeo.com/22439234
Obviously some of those shots require a timed slider/dolly, but how does one go about creating a timelapse similar to this? I use the t3i, is additional material required?

Phil took some great Milky Way shots in his recent Terra Australis timelapse collaboration without the need for an equatorial mount, so relatively lo-tech is possible, sure. He'll answer your specific q's. no doubt. :cool:

A lot of it has to do with knowing where to shoot. There's a spot about an hour from my house where the clouds billow in, similar to that video. It's halfway up a mountain, but can drive there. Only issue is never knowing when the conditions are gonna be "just right" for the weather. At which point, it's still an hour away.

I use Magic Lantern's intervalometer software for the timelapse (that should work on a T3i), and a large memory card shooting RAW. There's a huge amount of options in post, if you shoot it all RAW, that you simply cannot fix if shooting JPG.
 
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