I was going to make a fake film trailer, what would it look like if i didnt get telecined? (all yellow right?)
Well, remember you are going to shoot negative. So it won't just have the base layer yellow to it, it will be a negative.
I have projected a negative from 16mm before and although you can check certain elements, it is impossible to check for perfect focus or perfect exposure in that environment.
Now an option for you could be to shoot reversal film.
If you do that, what you shoot is then a positive rather than a negative. The downside is it also is VERY high contrast, which means you need to be right on the marks as far as exposure goes.
It is also less expensive to buy than neg and you could do your own poor-mans-telecine with a video camera.
But again, I cannot stress how accurate you need to be with exposure.
My short, High Fire Danger! was shot on reversal B&W and while it was the perfect aesthetic decision, you can clearly see a loss of detail in complex latitude areas (areas where there is shadow and sunlight). This removes one of the huge advantages negative film has over video is the latitude to capture detail.
If I shoot in daylight with a T balanced film I then need a daylight filter that goes over the camcorder lens right.
My camcorda says Lens c-8
9-45mm 1:14 marcro
So i need a 45mm daylight filter right?
Think of it this way:
If you shoot with tungsten balanced film, the white point is set to 3200 kelvin. That means if you use a halogen work light as your image will have white light. That means you need to bring down the white point of daylight or flourescent or whatever is your light source above 3200k to 3200k. So if you are outside, use a 85B filter to accomplish this.
http://www.adorama.com/Search-Results.tpl?op=searchresults&searchinfo=85B&comparison=wa&sf=Price
If you are using daylight film and want to shoot using 3200k sources such as an incandescent bulb lamp or halogen work light, you would use an 80A filter. This has the reverse effect, which converts 3200k light to 5500k.