Quick questions before my re-shoot tonight.

[Dreadylocks]

I'm just playing around with the T3i I rented for my 1-scene reshoot tonight. I think I've figured out how to access all the manual controls and set it up. And so now I've got a couple quick questions that I need to verify the answers to.

I know similar questions have been asked a lot on here. And I did a search and got some results so now I've got a general idea, but I just want to confirm.

Ok. So the main thing I'm wondering about is ISO. The camera doesn't seem to have many options. Basically AUTO, 100, 200, 400, 800 (and so on, but I gather you don't normally want to go over 800). I've also read on here that multiples of 320 produce a better picture. I just want to make sure I'm not being dense and that the camera can't go to those custom ISOs like 320 or 640 without the hack (which isn't an option since I'm renting)?

So I should try and keep it at 400 or 800 and light to compensate, yes?

I'm shooting 1080p 24fps, so I set a shutter speed of 1/50. Is that right or should it be 1/60?

And for aperture it's basically a balance of getting the the DOF I want and the camera picking up enough light, correct?

I'm also not entirely sure if I should mess with the LCD brightness. I turned it down all the way, since I know for example my normal camera (HF200) makes images appear much brighter than they are unless you turn it down all the way. But on the T3i it gets very dark compared to the analog viewfinder if you turn the brightness down all the way. So, in your experience, is it safe to put the LCD brightness up a few notches and still get an accurate display?

Ok, I'm pretty sure that's all the concerns I've got right now. Any answers would be awesome. And wish us luck with the re-shoot!

Thanks

 

[chilipie]

I'm just playing around with the T3i I rented for my 1-scene reshoot tonight. I think I've figured out how to access all the manual controls and set it up. And so now I've got a couple quick questions that I need to verify the answers to.

I know similar questions have been asked a lot on here. And I did a search and got some results so now I've got a general idea, but I just want to confirm.

It's what we're here for!

Ok. So the main thing I'm wondering about is ISO. The camera doesn't seem to have many options. Basically AUTO, 100, 200, 400, 800 (and so on, but I gather you don't normally want to go over 800). I've also read on here that multiples of 320 produce a better picture. I just want to make sure I'm not being dense and that the camera can't go to those custom ISOs like 320 or 640 without the hack (which isn't an option since I'm renting)?

So I should try and keep it at 400 or 800 and light to compensate, yes?

That's correct - I try to stick to 400 and below, only going to 800 when really necessary (mainly night exteriors). If you're happy using noise reduction software in post you could go even higher if you need to.

The 600D will only change ISO in whole stops without a firmware hack, that's right - but in all honesty, I don't really think sticking to multiples of 160 makes a dramatic difference to the noise anyway.

I'm shooting 1080p 24fps, so I set a shutter speed of 1/50. Is that right or should it be 1/60?

While 1/50 is the closest you can get to a 180° shutter, you may actually be safer going with 1/60. Because mains power in the US runs at 60Hz, using a 1/60 shutter will eliminate flicker from fluorescent lights, whereas a 1/50 shutter may not.

However, if you haven't got any flickery light sources at 1/50, the extra third of a stop of light may be useful.

And for aperture it's basically a balance of getting the the DOF I want and the camera picking up enough light, correct?

Yup. Keep the camera out while you light the scene so you can get a rough idea of how bright it is. Shooting a scene at the same stop throughout makes everything look a bit more consistent and coherent - ideally, it will be bright enough to shoot with your slowest lens without having to turn your ISO up.

I'm also not entirely sure if I should mess with the LCD brightness. I turned it down all the way, since I know for example my normal camera (HF200) makes images appear much brighter than they are unless you turn it down all the way. But on the T3i it gets very dark compared to the analog viewfinder if you turn the brightness down all the way. So, in your experience, is it safe to put the LCD brightness up a few notches and still get an accurate display?

I'd make the LCD as bright as you need to see it. If you haven't got a light meter, use the under/over-exposure meter on the bottom of the screen to get a rough idea, and then take a still and turn on the histogram (toggle the display button).

You want to get as much information as possible without clipping your highlights (making things darker in post looks much better than trying to make them brighter). If your histogram isn't hitting the left side (blacks clipping) or the right side (whites clipping) you should be alright.

Ok, I'm pretty sure that's all the concerns I've got right now. Any answers would be awesome. And wish us luck with the re-shoot!

Thanks

Good luck!

 

[Dreadylocks]

Thanks, dude!

When something is clipping on the histogram, that's when a part of the readout is spiked up really high, right? So, for example, if the black is clipping, the left side will be a lot higher than the rest?

 

[chilipie]

When something is clipping on the histogram, that's when a part of the readout is spiked up really high, right? So, for example, if the black is clipping, the left side will be a lot higher than the rest?

The x-axis is black to white. The y-axis is how many pixels there are of that brightness. You could have spike on the left and have a really good exposure; you could have a spike on the right and have a really good exposure - some shots need to be underexposed to look right (e.g. a night exterior) and others need to be overexposed (e.g. a snowy landscape in bright sun). It's only really when it hits the edges - especially on the right - that you start to have problems.

Luminous Landscape has a good guide to interpreting histograms - they also make the point that "with the possible exception of showing badly blown out highlights there really is no such thing as a bad histogram".

 

[Dreadylocks]

Right, this is starting to make sense.

Thanks for the info and the link

 

[justinisfilming]

So I should try and keep it at 400 or 800 and light to compensate, yes?

Setting my ISO on 1600 isn't a problem for me. If you got some lights in your scene, the noise wouldn't be very noticeable. But if the scene is complete darkness and full of shadows, you can probably see some but not that much. Just don't put it on 3200! It's a sin!! =)

Good luck on your re-shoot! I hope I'm not late.

 

[PaulGriffith]

I think Ollie hit everything pertinent. I'll only add the reason the analog eyepiece viewfinder will look different than the LCD screen is that it's looking directly through the lens, no ISO or shutter speed affecting it, only aperture. Since it's hitting your eye directly and the human eye/brain is pretty amazing at creating the same image in a slightly lit or very well lit room, you can't trust it for how it'll look brightness-wise captured on your card.

 

[Phil_UK]

Setting my ISO on 1600 isn't a problem for me. If you got some lights in your scene, the noise wouldn't be very noticeable. But if the scene is complete darkness and full of shadows, you can probably see some but not that much. Just don't put it on 3200! It's a sin!! =)

Good luck on your re-shoot! I hope I'm not late.

1600 is close to murder!

Keep it below 800 all the time! Light your scene and go down to 200! It will be a much much cleaner look!

 

[Ernest Worthing]

I hope this reaches you in time. I only just saw ur email.

There are things you should do and things we had to do given the size of the room and the lights.

Shutter 1/50 and aperture wide open on the 10-22mm. Your ISO here is going to be at 800 if you're in the room upstairs and still have the same amount of lights as before. We just didnt have enough light up there and ofcourse we couldnt open the aperture more than the lens would allow or lower the shutter so the ISO was pushed up.

A couple of notes: Make sure peripheral illumination correction is off (if the t3i has that option), you're balanced to tungsten, neutral profile settings and try and get Trevor to stand still while you focus

Goodluck and if you have any quick questions during your setups, just give me a call.

 

[Dreadylocks]

I have yet to look at the footage on a larger screen, but everything seemed to go well. And the performances were even better than the original shoot, plus we had time to get more coverage.

Though I feel bad for John (Santa), it was about 80 degrees and he was wearing a parka under his Santa-suit. A trooper and a true professional

Thanks again for all the help, guys

 

[Flicker Pictures]

Great to hear that it went well and that you moved forward with the re-shoot!