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Canon 1014 and Tri-X

I began a film shoot this weekend, and my test shots did not go as planned. To make matter worse, the meter readings I got after supposedly correcting the problem were not "inspiring".

I am shooting Tri-X 7266 Super 8 b/w reversal with a Canon 1014, 220 degree shutter at 18 fps. The filter is set for Tungsten light, as the book recommends.

My lights are an Arri Fresnel, a Lowell Omni and a Lowell DP, the former fitted with an umbrella.

My meter is a Sekonic Studio Deluxe L-28C.

I set up my scene by sight, adjusting for taste and shadows. My meter readings were all over the place in the scene...2, 3.5, 4, 2, 2.8...you get the picture. I chose a rough average: 4. The Fresnel and the Omni (w/umbrella) were on either side of the scene, crisscrossing on my two subjects. The DP was bounced up at the ceiling to fall back down on the subjects.

The result was that the faces were all washed out, it was grainy, almost like it had been pushed, and the detail around the edges was nowhere to be found. The shot was wide from, by my best guess, ten to twelve feet. When I looked at the medium shot, there was a little more detail to it, but not much.

My solution was to move the lights further away and try to even out the scene. I also subdued the light with Toughspun to soften the light. I swapped the Fresnel and the Omni and chose to bounce the DP off the wall and away from the actors, to scene left, as opposed to up at the ceiling and in the direction of the actors.

This time my meter readings were consistent across the board: 2. But this still does not feel right! The camera's auto setting reads 1.4. I chose to listen to the meter and shoots some scenes at 2, then others at 4 and 5.6. I shot some scenes with the 150 degree shutter as a control and even shot on cartridge an alternate camera, also as a control. The film is currently at the lab, but I am concerned that my footage will still not be where I want it.

Thoughts?
 
Well the scenes you shot at 2 from your meter reading will be the ones that are exposed normal, assuming you set your meter correctly.

I'm curious as to why you decided to shoot with a 220 shutter..?

I'm also interested in your metering technique, as that could be the reason you got odd results. Assuming you metered each light at the person's face and made your decisions from there, you should've gotten close at least to what you wanted.

For example, you meter your key light that's hitting 2/3rds of the person's face and it reads at 4.0. You meter their fill light and it reads as 2.0. You know that if you expose at 4, their fill will be 2 stops under, if you expose at 2.0, their key will be 2 stops over, and if you expose in the middle at 2.8, key will be one over, and fill will be one under.

Then you'll probably want to meter your background lights and adjust them with scrims, NDs, diffs etc. until yu got the stop you want (ie; do you want the background to be over or under the key on the subject's face? etc.).

I probably wouldn't trust auto settings from a camera that old.. But, perhaps test it on it's auto settings and see the results.

Also, what do you have your meter set to? Ie, if you have it set to 24fps and a 180 shutter, then it's not giving you a proper reading if you're shooting at 225 shutter, and 18fps.
 
Are you spot metering at the subject or incident metering at the camera? The camera uses an incident meter for its evaluation. For spot metering, what you're really looking for is exposure for the Key, then lighting ratios for your "look" from the rest of the lights. I often put my fill lights on a dimmer to make them easier to adjust for the ratio I'm using rather than moving the fixtures. Cheap ones can be had from Harbor Freight Tools online by purchasing a "Router Speed Controller" ~US$25 or so.

Kodak ( http://motion.kodak.com/motion/Products/Production/Black_And_White_Reversal_Films/7266.htm ) puts that stock as good for outdoor shooting and studio shooting... so it's going to want a fair amount of light for exposure without looking grainy, especially on super8. Outdoor photography commonly shoots "Sunny 16" which is to match your shutter speed and ISO (200 ISO would be shot at 1/250th), then set the iris to 16 (very tiny) to get proper exposure without metering.

Grainy film means you need more light, not more even light. Point the DP at the talent with some diffusion on it to soften a bit... then fill to the ratio you want. Check exposure on the key side of the face with a spot meter and all the rest of the lights off and a hand shielding the meter from any bounced light. Then bring up your fill, rim and background lighting to their desired exposures for the ratio you're looking for and incident meter at the camera (due to the inverse square law, the meter reading at your subject will be different than the reading at your camera) and see if that matches what the camera sees.
 
I'll also add that reversal has much less latitude than neg film, so you're not going to be able to get away with 2-3 stops of over/under-exposure, and you need to shoot what you want - ie you can't over-expose for a denser negative like you can with neg film.

You might do well to do some tests and see exactly how far over/under you can push things before you start to get unacceptable results. The last time I shot with reversal, I found that anything more than 3-stops over or under-exposed was unacceptably dark/light for me, so I had to light with that in mind.
 
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