Thoughts?
Figuring out how good this is.
- Thread starter xThePhenomenal1x
- Start date
Thoughts?
That's what's causing your problem, then. Set the exposure manually and don't touch it throughout the shoot (unless you're changing locations, of course.)
Good stuff man.
I think filming at a higher speed and making the movments as minor as possible will give more fluidity to their movement unless you're going for a jumpier sequence in which case slow up the speed. I had a stop motion program on my android phone for a while. Did a ten second middle finger flip that came out okay. With stop motion its best to have the action moving at a normal speed in your mind then try to slow it down when you're filming. Thats the best way to make sure you're filming how you see it in your head.
I could be wrong, but I think the way to do it is to use still shots. Then combine them all into a movie. Last, set the duration of how long each individual photo plays-think like creating your own flip book on your computer but instead of drawing all the little changes that make the image look as if its moving, you are taking photos.
I think filming at a higher speed and making the movments as minor as possible will give more fluidity to their movement unless you're going for a jumpier sequence in which case slow up the speed. I had a stop motion program on my android phone for a while. Did a ten second middle finger flip that came out okay. With stop motion its best to have the action moving at a normal speed in your mind then try to slow it down when you're filming. Thats the best way to make sure you're filming how you see it in your head.
I could be wrong, but I think the way to do it is to use still shots. Then combine them all into a movie. Last, set the duration of how long each individual photo plays-think like creating your own flip book on your computer but instead of drawing all the little changes that make the image look as if its moving, you are taking photos.
http://www.wikihow.com/Create-a-Stop-Motion-Animation -not really a wiki kinda guy because its so subjectively edited but this is actually pretty good explaining.
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How can I do Manual Exposure on a Sony Bloggie Touch? I have that type of camera.
It would seem that you don't have any manual controls on that camera.
http://www.camcorderinfo.com/conten...MHS-TS10-Camcorder-Review/Manual-Controls.htm
Have you got any other cameras? Even a still image camera?
http://www.camcorderinfo.com/conten...MHS-TS10-Camcorder-Review/Manual-Controls.htm
Have you got any other cameras? Even a still image camera?
Its the only camera I have. I read a link saying my lighting was wrong though. Is it true that the lights in my room have to be shut off when I use the lamp to animate?
I can't believe you'd 'need' a manual exposure camera for this sort of set up. If you keep the same lighting set up, why would the auto exposure change at all?
I imagine it's mostly because he's panning, which means a slightly different level of light depending on how much the camera is or isn't pointed at the light source.
My budget is low. I am in high school and I am trying to save money for other things too. I don't plan on spending more than $200 for a camera.
Wow, I had no idea that it'd be that sensitive.
I don't think you should invest in another camera. What I'd recommend is doing a series of test shots to try and see how the exposure is affected as you move the camera. I'm not sure how much of a tweak of the light source it would take in order to level out the strobe effect.
I might have to buy a new camera. My camera's tripod mounting hole lost its threads. 
I might have to buy a new camera. My camera's tripod mounting hole lost its threads.
I think that camera is light enough for gaffer tape to more than secure it and hold it still...?
Yes.
Unless you are using the house lights to light the scene, shut them off. Always. Lighting is about control, if you leave the house lights up you have no control over what they spill into your scene. This includes unwanted light messing with your ratio, or wacky color temp (CFL with green spikes, or daylight from a window, for example) light spilling into your scene.
For <$200 if you want to do stop motion, get a decent stills camera with manual focus/exposure. You'll be compiling stills to do the final work anyway and you will have a great deal more control. Perhaps look into the CHDK community as well? I know there are a lot of folks doing interesting things with it, probably some stop motion folks in there as well. This way you can get something like a used Powershot cheap from ebay and go to town. http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/CHDK
For Clapper: I cannot think of a single situation in which I would want to leave a camera on auto exposure.
Even going from an extreme like dark indoors to bright outdoors - I would want to pull the iris manually to have control over the change.I don't think there is a way to light the scene where his camera won't alter exposure with a change in position. In order for that to happen the camera would have to meter the scene identically from all angles. Depending on how the camera is metering, that will probably not be possible. Even under perfectly equal lighting, if it meters a small enough sample, then it will make an exposure adjustment just based on the relative luminosity of the objects in the scene. In other words when something darkly colored crosses the metered portion of the sensor, the camera will open up. When something lightly colored does the same, it will stop down.
The problem is worse when we get into scenes lit with any sort of ratio. You *want* dark and light portions in your frame, and that will confuse auto exposure as you move along.
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Ive done a few stop motion projects (years back). You need a camera with manual controls and a remote trigger for best results. You can use a still camera for SM and you often get better results. We didnt use a tripod, we used a ceiling mount.. SM is easier to shoot this way because you have to be so close to the set floor usually and it reduces the chance of moving the camera (tripod) and ruining a sequence.
If youre going to only play this on the net, then you can shoot it at 15fps. Thats the default for most multimedia projects, animation and flash based stuff, etc. You can get away with it on a computer monitor.
Shoot with the room lights off to keep shadows out of your shot and to keep the lighting consistent.
Break the shots up into one second slices and go from there.....
If youre going to only play this on the net, then you can shoot it at 15fps. Thats the default for most multimedia projects, animation and flash based stuff, etc. You can get away with it on a computer monitor.
Shoot with the room lights off to keep shadows out of your shot and to keep the lighting consistent.
Break the shots up into one second slices and go from there.....
For Clapper: I cannot think of a single situation in which I would want to leave a camera on auto exposure.
I don't think there is a way to light the scene where his camera won't alter exposure with a change in position. In order for that to happen the camera would have to meter the scene identically from all angles. Depending on how the camera is metering, that will probably not be possible. Even under perfectly equal lighting, if it meters a small enough sample, then it will make an exposure adjustment just based on the relative luminosity of the objects in the scene. In other words when something darkly colored crosses the metered portion of the sensor, the camera will open up. When something lightly colored does the same, it will stop down.
I can get that it's not ideal but given that there's no manual exposure controls I can't understand why there isn't a way to (if not precisely match the light set ups) equal it out so that the strobe effect is neutralised.