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Delving into DSLR

So yes i know the dreaded question....

After coming into a little money i want to buy a DSLR both for film/video (to use for business purposes i.e. short promo films for companies etc) and to use for photography which is a little hobby.

Video wise... i just need to be able to manipulate focus easily whilst shooting, shoot in full 1080p and basically be simple to use for a cheap price...

Ive always had my eye on the 550d purely because it seems so popular, but are there better alternatives in that price range of between £400-£500?

Please bear in mind i'm not going to be shooting festival submitting features with this camera, but just using to help local businesses with video packages for the web and build a portfolio etc

I did look at the slightly cheaper Nikon D3100, but have heard some issues about auto-focus and lenses with them?

Please bear in mind im a DSLR virgin :D
 
"Manipulating focus easily" is more a function of the lens than the body, but for autofocus then the GH2 is probably the way to go. The Canons are all essentially manual focus only in video mode. That said, if you want autofocus I'd recommend getting a proper video camera rather than a DSLR. You'll get better looking images that are in focus more often than not.
 
Even in corporate video you're going to better off learning manual focus than trying to use auto for 99.5% of shoots. I imagine there might be some scenario where you would want auto focus, but I can't think of one at the moment.
 
haha, i should have never mentioned the damn auto focus!! i don't actually want to use it and would much rather learn and perfect manual focus... the reason i mentioned the D3100 and auto focus is that apparently you have to buy lenses with auto focus motors, so it limits the range of lenses avaialble?

But like i say, i want to use the manual focus...

Also on some models of DSLR it says that you cant change aperture and ISO within movie mode? some people seem to complain a lot about this... but being a DSLR Virgin i don't quite know how that would affect what i want to do?
 
haha, i should have never mentioned the damn auto focus!! i don't actually want to use it and would much rather learn and perfect manual focus... the reason i mentioned the D3100 and auto focus is that apparently you have to buy lenses with auto focus motors, so it limits the range of lenses avaialble?

But like i say, i want to use the manual focus...

Also on some models of DSLR it says that you cant change aperture and ISO within movie mode? some people seem to complain a lot about this... but being a DSLR Virgin i don't quite know how that would affect what i want to do?

Not on the fly once you start recording. You have to set it before you hit record.
 
Gonzo, excuse my ignorance... but is that a general problem? not being able to change it whilst recording?

With ISO you are generally setting it and leaving it set for the duration of at least a scene, if not an entire shoot/project.

Aperture is the same thing, although when the shot dictates it, a shooter will pull from one aperture value to another - I posted an example of an aperture pull in one of H44's someplace, here's a shorter one:

You are shooting a doc/reality piece - following a character from the indoors to the outside. You will need two different exposures for this shot and do not want to cut mid-move. You expose for the indoors, then as the character is headed outside find a clever spot to hide the aperture pull, and change for an outside exposure.

I suppose, hypothetically, that on a camera that let you dial iso on the fly, you could do that in the same scenario, but it's likely the change wouldn't be as smooth of a flow as dialing it on the lens. Also, since that capacity didn't exist until very recently, pretty much everyone uses aperture in the above example.
 
You can do the aperture changes David talks about if you have manual lenses (the only kind I own) where the aperture is physically controlled by the lens (the way ALL lenses were made 20 years ago) instead of being controlled by the camera. If it's a modern lens where the aperture is controlled by the camera chip you can't change it while recording.

On my agenda is getting all my lenses "de-clicked" so there are no hard clicks between stops, but a smooth roll of the aperture (the way real cinema glass works).
 
On my 7D I can scroll through ISO, Shutter Speed and Aperture through the camera controls while recording. Though, like David said, it's done in stops so it isn't fluid.

Even on vintage lenses and the modern manual lenses the aperture ring has stops in it so it "clicks" into place at a certain aperture. I do know some guys that modify theirs (taking it apart and pulling parts out) so that it's a smooth turn.
 
While i have a t3i and loooove it!! i really like the new sony a serise. Depends on which one you get its less expensive and comes with a lense, the fixed-mirror tech that sony is using is so fast compared to even the gh2 or higher end cameras has me intrigued. you do not have alot of controll over some features while in video mode. That is why i bought a t3i instead. but i will be picking this camera up some time eventually because 1 its getting high marks and reviews above more expensive dslr's 2 i really like the tech behind the fixed-mirror system (no moving parts) this means shooting film outdoors in harsh enviroments can be done with a little less worry. and 3 well its a sony......
in short a t3i (or t2i)
or a Sony a serise....good luck.
 
On my 7D I can scroll through ISO, Shutter Speed and Aperture through the camera controls while recording. Though, like David said, it's done in stops so it isn't fluid.

Even on vintage lenses and the modern manual lenses the aperture ring has stops in it so it "clicks" into place at a certain aperture. I do know some guys that modify theirs (taking it apart and pulling parts out) so that it's a smooth turn.

That's "de-clicking". There' a little ball bearing in there you have to remove then you put a friction grease inside to slow and smooth the turn of the ring. It can be done DIY or there is a guy who does it (and permanently mounts a follow focus gear on the lens) for $250 per lens.
 
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