Daylight Filter
- Thread starter Zensteve
- Start date
I don’t think so. Neutral density filters reduce the amount of light that can pass through the lens. They’re gray.
The “80” series of filters changes the color temperature of the light allowing you to shoot daylight balanced film with tungsten lighting and the “85” series allows you to shoot tungsten corrected film outdoors.
The “80” series of filters changes the color temperature of the light allowing you to shoot daylight balanced film with tungsten lighting and the “85” series allows you to shoot tungsten corrected film outdoors.
HailtotheKing said:director beat me to it but he's right. In conditions of extreme light intensity, such as sunshine on snowy mountains or on the beach, ND (Neutral Density) filters are recommended.
Here is a quick Ebay search for ND filters. Just make sure whichever one you get will fit onto your lens.
I have several filters for my camcorders (along with adapter rings to make them fit amongst those), but sadly the Canon lens is waaaay bigger.
Time for a fresh round of filters... was hoping in vain that I could skip getting a new ND on top of the others.
(I'm cheap)
Thanks for setting me straight. I was able to Google up some definitive readings with the 80 & 85 series as keywords.
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Hello. I am also looking into buying a S8 camera with a brand called Chinon 1206SM. Does anybody know if a boom mic can be plugged in into this camera? I've heard that these cameras are usually quiet unlike a Bolex 16mm. I'm also looking at russian built 16mm Krasnogorsk-3 K3 camera. Anybody know any pros and cons on this one aside from being awfully loud?
Steve, You might be able to find an adaptor that will fit the larger canon filters to the smaller S8 lenses. As long as they're bigger filters going to a smaller lens, it's not a problem. There is a usable range of adapters though, since they end up putting too much air between the glass and you end up with the filter messing up the image.
Check ebay or B&H. You might get lucky.
Check ebay or B&H. You might get lucky.
ELLENTIGER said:
It doesn't matter if a mic of any kind can be plugged into an S8 camera... noone makes S8 film with a soundstripe anymore; all current S8 film is silent.
Don't know about the other Qs, though.
Anamorphic, I ended up buying some new filters. The other ones I had were waaay different size, and no amount of step-up rings could save them.
ND's are awesome. They balance the image so much more, cut down bleeding, and open the aperature more which decreases the dof. If you can screw on filters, Id suggest a 2x and a 4x ND.
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I bought my K3 from ebay. There was a problem in shipping where Russian customs opened the box and replaced all of the packaging with little styrofoam balls which found their way into the leather case and into the camera body. This caused the camera not to run. After tearing the camera's face plate off (4 screws) I was able to shake all of them out. I verified this by opening the baffle plate when removing the loop formers (a HIGHLY recommended modification), there were no more balls in there. I cleaned everything with alcohol and qtips, and have just shot 4 test reels with it. It is wonderful image. Even from a one-light it is absolutely beautiful. I would only use it for silent or B-roll stuff as is, though because after inverse tk'ing the footage, the framerate is off a slight amount. I would hate to have to manually synch up 90 minutes of footage with constant adjustments. It could be done BUT the optional crystal synch motor from TCS is a fantastic solution to that problem. tobincinemasystems.com is the website I think. The motor is coming supposedly May 1st, at $495. This would make it the least expensive Crystal Synch camera out there, and by a good margin. The major downside will still be the 100' loads though, which will last only ~2:45 . That means about 1:45 - 2:10 of screen time depending on how quick you are with the slate, loading, and how many setups/takes you do.
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I bought my K3 from ebay. There was a problem in shipping where Russian customs opened the box and replaced all of the packaging with little styrofoam balls which found their way into the leather case and into the camera body. This caused the camera not to run. After tearing the camera's face plate off (4 screws) I was able to shake all of them out. I verified this by opening the baffle plate when removing the loop formers (a HIGHLY recommended modification), there were no more balls in there. I cleaned everything with alcohol and qtips, and have just shot 4 test reels with it. It is wonderful image. Even from a one-light it is absolutely beautiful. I would only use it for silent or B-roll stuff as is, though because after inverse tk'ing the footage, the framerate is off a slight amount. I would hate to have to manually synch up 90 minutes of footage with constant adjustments. It could be done BUT the optional crystal synch motor from TCS is a fantastic solution to that problem. tobincinemasystems.com is the website I think. The motor is coming supposedly May 1st, at $495. This would make it the least expensive Crystal Synch camera out there, and by a good margin. The major downside will still be the 100' loads though, which will last only ~2:45 . That means about 1:45 - 2:10 of screen time depending on how quick you are with the slate, loading, and how many setups/takes you do.