FPS Modes

I've had my new camera for about a month now, and I'm starting to really get the hang of it. One thing I really need help understanding is the fps modes it has. It has a 24p Cinema Mode, and a 30p progressive mode. What is the difference, which should I use, and for what type of filming? thanks for any help!
 
What camera do you have? Some cameras say that they shoot 24p or 30p, but they actually shoot something kind of different.

24p and 30p, respectively, means that you are taking 24 pictures per second (or 30, respectively). This is different from interlaced, which takes twice as many half-pictures, if you will.

I think a visual aid would help. http://www.axis.com/products/video/camera/progressive_scan.htm


I have the Canon HF MF30. I'm looking at that link, which is very helpful by the way, and it seems like it won't make a difference filming what I'm filming. I'm currently filming a comedy show, that doesn't have a lot of fast movements or anything like that, I don't think it makes a difference whichever one I do film in.
 
Fast-moving action films have been shot successfully in both interlaced and progressive. Traditional filmmaking progressive; traditional TV is interlaced.

The more important question isn't so much the content, but the main avenue of display. Where are people going to be watching this?
 
Yeah, so out of curiosity, I looked into the 24p Cinema Mode on that camera. Canon's a bunch of liars. It's not really shooting true 24p. It's actually shooting 60 frames, but leaving out the ones it doesn't need.

And I could be wrong on this (somebody please correct me if I'm wrong), but I think it's still shooting interlaced, but it places two interlaced images together, and calls it progressive.

Either way, I'd stay away from the Cinema Mode. It seems that in addition to faking 24p, it also adjusts your contrast and perhaps even softens the focus a little bit.

Just my two cents -- I'd stick with what the camera shoots, natively -- 60i. Any of the effects that are done by the camera can be done in post, but you'll retain more control over your image.
 
Sounds like the same 24p mode on the Canon HV20. It's actually 24p, but wrapped in a 60i "wrapper", which is what your NLE will recognize it as. Works fine if your output is to DVD, but if making a Web version (which is progressive), you need to deinterlace it and use a 3:2 pulldown. Otherwise, you'll see cadence errors.

Yeah, better to shoot in 60i and then do a 24p conversion in software. Maybe try something like Magic Bullet Frames from Red Giant Software. I've never tried it myself. I instead upgraded to a pro cam that shoots true native 24p. Much easier to work with (but at a higher price).
 
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