Getting the best out of my Canon HV20?

Sweeney Jet

Sweeney Jet

Hey. I've been reading plenty on the Canon 5D Mark II and how stunning the images look. I'm quite dissapointed that it has poor sound and no mic input -- how does that work now? Yeah, can't afford it -- though, I want one, but I have to make do with what I have... which isn't bad.

I own a Canon HV20 and I rather love it -- if it's possible to love a camcorder. However, looking at the films I've made, I just know the HV20 can do better.

For example, this is my web series and it doesn't look... that good:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ppAh38_RKPU

How can I make my HV20 footage look like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qR1HZCgJirE


Well, here's my theory...

1) A 35mm adapter (the only kind I can afford is a Jag35ST) and some type of lens? (I have no knowledge of camera tech specs)

2) Softbox lighting. No? Yes?

3) Proper importing and exporting into FCP. How does one do that to maximize camera potential? (On my web series, I used iMovie HD... maybe that's the problem?)

4) That 24p pull down remover thing? I didn't do that. Maybe that's why?

That's all I can come up with. What have you got?

Lastly, does anyone know of any cool/cheap matte box/double handle shoulder support rig for the HV20? I'm not great at building stuff, so I was looking to get something pre-made. I want my shoots look more professional. That could help.

Help me out, mates. I'd appreciate it. :)
 
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as far as i can advise you for a better looking dof picture is indeed to get a 35mm adapter..

I use a letus35mini on mine.. 'look at my welcome message for my complete set up..' cost me some euro's.. but must say it's all worth it.. but than again, now I have the wanted set up there is no excuse for weak footage haha

love the hv20.. it's a good camcorder.

goodluck.

grt, mike d.
 
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1 - Yes.

2 - Probably yes. Soften your light through any variety of means.

3 - Yes, but I don't have the info you seek.

4- Yes, 24p in some form or another, if the camera can't do it natively there are options. I also don't have specific info on this one.

Cliff notes: You're heading the right direction. :D
 
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+1 on 35mm adapter.. but.. honestly having talent that is pleasing to look at and can act would help even more! Makeup and lighting are a big part of that.

You location is too "busy" to many shapes and textures on the wall so more of the attention goes there.. sure, selective focus as provided by a 35mm adapter will soften the background by taking it out of focus, but you can do the same thing with set design. Ugly set = ugly film.

Finlay, the color grading on the second sample is much more monochromatic and consistent. In your footage your white balance changes from one shot to the next, see 3:40 -> 3:45 particularly. Also your exposure seems to be wandering a bit. Your camera can do better than that.

On a good side, you have some great angles and framing, so your close.. even without any new equipment.
 
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wheatgrinder said:
+1 on 35mm adapter.. but.. honestly having talent that is pleasing to look at and can act would help even more! Makeup and lighting are a big part of that.
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lol. They're my friends who wanna help me get experience. They're cool for that. I'm thinking of the Jag35ST? It's affordable and it looks great. http://jag35.com/new/products/jag35st/ Thoughts?

Ugly set = ugly film.
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Never thought of it that way. Thanks, man.

Finlay, the color grading on the second sample is much more monochromatic and consistent. In your footage your white balance changes from one shot to the next, see 3:40 -> 3:45 particularly. Also your exposure seems to be wandering a bit. Your camera can do better than that.
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Monochromatic? What is that? So how does one control exposure on a semi-prosumer camcorder like the HV20? I would think getting a 35mm adapter, but I can't afford that at the moment.

On a good side, you have some great angles and framing, so your close.. even without any new equipment.
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That means a lot. Thank you. :cool:

SweenyJet, I am in the midst of putting my HV20 through the ringer. Will be ordering NeoScene soon. Stay tuned for results...
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NeoScene from Cineform? Is that an app for FCP? Will stay tuned.

love the hv20.. it's a good camcorder.
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:cool:

use a letus35mini on mine.. 'look at my welcome message for my complete set up..' cost me some euro's.. but must say it's all worth it.
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I'm confused. Where's your "welcome message?" Can't afford the letus35mini... and in looking at the footages, it looks almost the same as the Jag35ST. But cost $700 more. I guess there'd be more quality to it to a trained eye, which I don't have.


I'm really impressed at how the night scenes of this comedy looked. Any idea how they did it?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BaU-8BmXtpM

:lol:

But, yeah, thanks for help. I guess what I'm looking for is a good set up to produce cinematic stuff, that's done cheaply for my HV20. I think it's doable. And I'm willing to learn, at my pace. :D
 
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You can lock the exposure in on the cam... I used to have an HV20.. i forget how. but if I remember, you need a mini SD card for taking photos and you get the exposure where you want it in photo mode, then shoot the video.. Google it, you can control the exposure somewhat w/ that cam for sure.

Monochromatic colors are all the colors (tints, tones, and shades) of a single hue.


.
Monocolour.jpg
 
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Sweeney Jet said:
Huh. Mini SD card? I shoot it on miniDV tapes.
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For shooting still photos. There's a slot for the memory card on the panel that is revealed when you open the side-monitor. You'll also find a button on top-rear of the camera that actually takes the still photo when pressed. Photos get sent straight to the memory card; not tape.
 
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Yes , you will need a card even if you only want to use the photo feature to lock exposure. you are kind of tricking the cam into locking exposure. when you depress the photo button, the display will show what exposure the cam is using for the photo. You can then lock it and increase or decrease the aperture setting and viola ! you will have some control over exposure.


Im sure there are many how tos on the net about this, prolly even on youtube
 
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g8hqopUcA-E DIY or PM me and I'll sell ya one for $120 built



You can use paper globe lights on the cheap in some instances for soft lighting. or some clamp lights and white foamcore to bounce





.
 
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Just FYI, you don't need an SD card to control the exposure on an HV20 manually - you can lock the exposure and adjust it without, the SD card is only useful if you want to control the aperture, shutter and gain individually, rather than just a general exposure value. You can read more on DVXuser.
 
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Set design and location are critical in establishing the right feel to the film. Putting your actors in an environment that is interesting and appealing to look at takes effort, but it's so worth it.
 
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chilipie said:
Just FYI, you don't need an SD card to control the exposure on an HV20 manually - you can lock the exposure and adjust it without, the SD card is only useful if you want to control the aperture, shutter and gain individually, rather than just a general exposure value. You can read more on DVXuser.
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Thanks. I've just being trying to work with the exposure during post-production, instead of during production. :lol:

Set design and location are critical in establishing the right feel to the film. Putting your actors in an environment that is interesting and appealing to look at takes effort, but it's so worth it.
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I will learn more about that.
 
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DOF is great. It really adds extra quality to the film because you can soften the background however. I think more important than DOF is lighting. Intensity, direction, color all add to the effect.

Example, your room has tonnes of egg crates on the wall. You can either create an interesting effect on them with a special colored light (Blue, Purple, Green, Yellow etc.) If you don't go for colors, a light reflected by a dull white surface (Ceiling, reflector, umbrella etc) will illuminate the room and the subject softly.

If you have DOF without good lighting you still have crap. If you have good lighting and no DOF, you will have film that looks good.

24P does look better to the eye, but as someone suggests, there are ways. Even if you don't use 24P, your stuff is on the net where it doesn't matter as much. Focus on Lighting, camera angles and camera stabilization.
 
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Flicker Pictures said:
I totally forgot to post here... but check out this thread. :)

http://www.indietalk.com/showthread.php?t=27145

Is there a way to embed Vimeo clips?
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:cool: This was actually pretty cool. Did you zoom in to get that blurred/focus look like I do or did your wide angle lens did that? I had no idea you can attach stuff to the HV20 without some kind of an adapter! I sound like such a n00b. :D ... Kinda think of it, I am! :weird:


If you have DOF without good lighting you still have crap. If you have good lighting and no DOF, you will have film that looks good.
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That's very true.

Example, your room has tonnes of egg crates on the wall. You can either create an interesting effect on them with a special colored light (Blue, Purple, Green, Yellow etc.)
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That's a good idea. It's actually my composer's room. My room's actually painted all sky blue for some reason. Any cool lighting chances from that?
 
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