Adapting old FD lenses for HFS100

I was talking to my dad recently and he said that he had an old Canon FTb hanging around somewhere, and that he would give it to me if I wanted. After rummaging around for it, he managed to find it, underneath a lot of useless junk.

He didn't tell me about all the lenses he had!

I've got the basic 50mm f/1.4 FD lens, a 100-200mm f/5.6 FD zoom lens, a Rowi FD teleconverter, a dark Minolta polarizer and I guess the stock polarizer, and a plethora of various other close up lenses.

Is there any way for me to take advantage of these FD lenses? I've found a little bit about using them on EOS cameras, but that doesn't really help me.
 
Do a google search for 35mm adapters. Also known as depth of field(DOF) adapters. There are lots to choose from, but that is what you need to put a lens on that camera.
Oh, wow. I was wondering about those from the random videos I saw on Vimeo that mentioned them.

Too bad they're out of my budget for the moment! Ah well, can't complain too much, I'll have these lenses hanging out until I can snatch one up. Thanks!
 
You can get one for $200. If you buy from Jag that even comes with a 50mm f/1.8 (so not as good as the one you've got). And as far as I know, they use an FD mount, so no additional adapter would be needed to use the lenses which you already have.
 
You can get one for $200. If you buy from Jag that even comes with a 50mm f/1.8 (so not as good as the one you've got). And as far as I know, they use an FD mount, so no additional adapter would be needed to use the lenses which you already have.
Are the ~$200 ones comparable with the Letus Mini? Cos the Letus Mini is clocking in at $700, and that's a large enough price gap to make me think the cheapos aren't worth buying.

Hm. This is now making me strongly reconsider which camera to get. I was leaning towards picking up an HFS100 soon, but only because of its superior image quality. If I can get something like the HF20 and throw this sucker on it and get significantly better image quality than that...
 
Well I use one of the $200 ones (the encinema) and I'm sure it's not as good as the really pricey vibrating ones, but it does work and it's a huge improvement being able to use those lenses. I have a couple test videos on my youtube channel, just bear in mind those were 'out of the box' tests so to speak, I've gotten more skilled with it since then :)

Is it worth it to wait for the super better kind? Maybe. It's really a matter of how long do you think before you can get the pricey one? Do you really not want to take advantage of those fast lenses until then?
 
Well I use one of the $200 ones (the encinema) and I'm sure it's not as good as the really pricey vibrating ones, but it does work and it's a huge improvement being able to use those lenses. I have a couple test videos on my youtube channel, just bear in mind those were 'out of the box' tests so to speak, I've gotten more skilled with it since then :)
I'll check it out, thanks.

Is it worth it to wait for the super better kind? Maybe. It's really a matter of how long do you think before you can get the pricey one? Do you really not want to take advantage of those fast lenses until then?
The rub.

Obviously, I don't want to buy anything that's going to fall apart/not perform as expected/common sense stuff, but the reality between buying something expensive that will perform very well and probably last longer than I will but being unable to use it anytime soon and buying the cheaper, but workable alternative and getting a lot of immediate use out of it is tough. Which is why I spend hours pouring over all the information I can find before making any remotely significant purchase.

I just found the one you were talking about for $200 that comes with the other (worse) FD lens. It seems like a good deal. Now I just have to agonize whether or not it's worth it to get the HFS100 over the HF20...
 
OK, I am now an official expert on this topic! hahah..

I have an hfs100 with a Letus Extreme (used $500)

If you haven't yet spent the money on the camera, I would suggest you thoughtfully consider a DSLR. For the same package price you can have a much more flexible setup. That said, I love my setup, and the rest of my post will assume that you are set on the camcorder - 35mm Adapter setup.

There are three basic types of 35mm adapters, they are mostly differentiated by the movement (or lack of) of the imaging screen

  • Static
  • Vibrating
  • Spinning

All adapters have a piece of frosted glass, like a focusing screen from an old SLR. The 35mm lens projects its image on THAT glass, not the cameras sensor. The camera is focused on the frosted glass and not the world outside.

in a "static" adapter, this glass just sits there. Since its static, you can see the grain pattern, grain is OK, like film, but since it doesn't move it CAN look a bit off. You don't often see the grain, so its not as big of deal as some folks make out to be.

"Vibrating" adapters have a little buzzer hat vibrates the frosted glass at a high frequency. This makes the grain, when you see it, appear more random and somewhat blurred.

A "spinning" adapter has a circular piece of frosted glass spinning at a fast rate of speed. The effect is similar to the vibrating adapters but has much better performance and you almost never see the bad grain.

As you can see the three rise in complexity, not moving, moving a little, and moving a lot.. The price increases with the complexity.

On all 35mm adapters the image projected by the 35mm SLR lens onto the frosted glass is inverted. Some 35mm adapters have an additional set of optical elements that will re-invert the image. This is commonly called a "flip" module.

To flip or not to flip is the question..

With out a flip stage, the image your camera records will be upside down. As this is an all digital age, flipping it back right side up is easy to do once the image is on your computer. Filming to an upside down is tricky, but doable.

With a flip module you don't have that problem, but you do have SOME light loss and you will spend more money.

On my rig you can see the hfs100 and the Letus Extreme with a canon FD 200mm prime lens. You can clearly see the FLIP module (integrated into the Letus) You can also see that the entire system is mounted on a set of support rails. For the Letus this is a MUST. That sucker is HEAVY and will strip your cameras filter threads right out if not supported.
attachment.php


You can also see the 7" monitor that I have for focusing. With manual focusing in HD a bigger screen really helps, many consider it a requirement. FYI: When you go with a 35mm adapter setup, you no longer have AUTO FOCUS ability. NOTE: If your adapter doesn't have a FLIP module, then you can always just turn the external monitor over. (common practice)

So you have two main decisions:

Which technology (static, vibrating or spinning) and to flip or not to flip.

Top of the line would be a spinning glass system with integrated flip. Bottom of the line would be static no flip.

You can spend as much money as you want. There are lots of accessories and "good to haves," but you can add those over time so I don't consider them an UPFRONT expense.

OK, thats enough for now, as I just went through this research, selection and purchase process for my setup, I can offer you lots of very specific advice.

Just ask.
 
all in all, Id just sell the SLR lenses and buy something more practical, like sound gear. That Nifty Fifty (50mm f1.4) fetch about $50. The f5.6 zoom is not unusable on anything but a spinning adapter. (technical reasons, but its a fact!) so has little resale value.
 
If you haven't yet spent the money on the camera, I would suggest you thoughtfully consider a DSLR. For the same package price you can have a much more flexible setup.
Sure, it's off-topic, but I'm curious as to why. I was strongly considering getting one, but I've read that the cheaper DSLRs just aren't good enough to be worth the "hassle" that comes with shooting on them. Plus, 20p makes my heart sad.

There are three basic types of 35mm adapters, they are mostly differentiated by the movement (or lack of) of the imaging screen

  • Static
  • Vibrating
  • Spinning

All adapters have a piece of frosted glass, like a focusing screen from an old SLR. The 35mm lens projects its image on THAT glass, not the cameras sensor. The camera is focused on the frosted glass and not the world outside.

in a "static" adapter, this glass just sits there. Since its static, you can see the grain pattern, grain is OK, like film, but since it doesn't move it CAN look a bit off. You don't often see the grain, so its not as big of deal as some folks make out to be.

"Vibrating" adapters have a little buzzer hat vibrates the frosted glass at a high frequency. This makes the grain, when you see it, appear more random and somewhat blurred.

A "spinning" adapter has a circular piece of frosted glass spinning at a fast rate of speed. The effect is similar to the vibrating adapters but has much better performance and you almost never see the bad grain.

As you can see the three rise in complexity, not moving, moving a little, and moving a lot.. The price increases with the complexity.

On all 35mm adapters the image projected by the 35mm SLR lens onto the frosted glass is inverted. Some 35mm adapters have an additional set of optical elements that will re-invert the image. This is commonly called a "flip" module.

To flip or not to flip is the question..

With out a flip stage, the image your camera records will be upside down. As this is an all digital age, flipping it back right side up is easy to do once the image is on your computer. Filming to an upside down is tricky, but doable.

With a flip module you don't have that problem, but you do have SOME light loss and you will spend more money.

On my rig you can see the hfs100 and the Letus Extreme with a canon FD 200mm prime lens. You can clearly see the FLIP module (integrated into the Letus) You can also see that the entire system is mounted on a set of support rails. For the Letus this is a MUST. That sucker is HEAVY and will strip your cameras filter threads right out if not supported.
attachment.php


You can also see the 7" monitor that I have for focusing. With manual focusing in HD a bigger screen really helps, many consider it a requirement. FYI: When you go with a 35mm adapter setup, you no longer have AUTO FOCUS ability. NOTE: If your adapter doesn't have a FLIP module, then you can always just turn the external monitor over. (common practice)

So you have two main decisions:

Which technology (static, vibrating or spinning) and to flip or not to flip.

Top of the line would be a spinning glass system with integrated flip. Bottom of the line would be static no flip.

You can spend as much money as you want. There are lots of accessories and "good to haves," but you can add those over time so I don't consider them an UPFRONT expense.

OK, thats enough for now, as I just went through this research, selection and purchase process for my setup, I can offer you lots of very specific advice.

Just ask.
Thank you for the incredibly helpful post. Wow.

Based on that... I guess I'm looking at getting a vibrating or spinning adapter with no flip, with the intention of also getting an HD monitor to drain even more battery life.

I see you went with the Letus. Is this because of the integrated flip? Jag appears to be a quality brand as well, and are much cheaper; I suspect this is because they lack integrated flip, which seems to be where the price jump comes from. This video was shot with their mid-tier vibrating adapter on the HV30, and I think it looks impressive. All for only $300, half the price of the Letus, and since it's much lighting it wouldn't necessitate the use of a rail. Plus, with the money 'saved' on not getting the Letus I could procure a decent monitor, both fixing the inversion problem and manual focus issues.

Oh, and thanks for the gear porn. Delicious.

all in all, Id just sell the SLR lenses and buy something more practical, like sound gear. That Nifty Fifty (50mm f1.4) fetch about $50. The f5.6 zoom is not unusable on anything but a spinning adapter. (technical reasons, but its a fact!) so has little resale value.
I was thinking about selling them. It's true, they won't be useful for some time, since getting a camera, extended battery, tripod, homemade steadycam, two mics, various audio accessories, and making a pocket amplifier for my headphones comes first. But... I have a thing for old, clunky analog machines, and my dad got this stuff 30 years ago having no idea I might be using them someday for making movies... I'm a sentimental guy.
 
OK, I am now an official expert on this topic! hahah..
I have an hfs100 with a Letus Extreme (used $500)

Nice summary! You found an extreme used for $500? Sweet deal, especially if it came with the iris rods and associated mounting hardware.

Are you using Canon glass too? I've only seen folks using Nikon - and giving various reasons for doing so. But I'm hoping to be able to use the same lenses for an adapter that I use on my stills camera. (see below)

@Wombat. Two things:

For those who are adventurous and on a budget here's always this:

http://www.redrockmicro.com/diy_guide.html

$50 for the build guide and the ground glass. There are a few threads (on other boards, maybe one or two here) where folks have posted results and alterations and what-not.

Also, if you decide you want to part with your FD mount stuff, shoot me a PM. I shoot still film with an AE-1 and might be interested in some of those bits.
 
@Wombat. Two things:

For those who are adventurous and on a budget here's always this:

http://www.redrockmicro.com/diy_guide.html

$50 for the build guide and the ground glass. There are a few threads (on other boards, maybe one or two here) where folks have posted results and alterations and what-not.
The worst thing you can give to a hypomanic person is a DIY project. ;)

Yeah, I dunno about that. I could probably build it with a little bit of help, but I just don't know whether it's worth the hassle. For the cost of parts alone I would likely be close to buying a new Jag adapter, or (with any luck) a used one to mount FD stuff and with 58mm threading. And I wonder exactly how "high quality" it is; the few videos I can find using it don't inspire much confidence, but they're using SD cameras, so maybe it's not fair to use those.

Still, I do like projects, and I could probably get my dad to help me build them, which is cool in a literary kind of way. I'll do some more digging and see if I can't find some useful nuggets.

Also, if you decide you want to part with your FD mount stuff, shoot me a PM. I shoot still film with an AE-1 and might be interested in some of those bits.
I'll keep it in mind, thanks.
 
Yeah, part of me really wants the DIY thing to be awesome, but the GG that comes with the kit is not the same (read probably inferior) to the one sold in the m2.

Still a few folks with impressive results. Can't post them here without linking to another forum. Technically a manufacturer's forum, does that count as competing?

Still, it's worth it to me from the academic standpoint, and if I am pleased enough with it there is a scientific glass company near me that I'll bet could whip out a sweet GG for not too much coin.

Building one is on my list, then I'll be able to direct compare it to a retail one, on the same camera, with the same lenses. Hope to get that done before the end of the year (lots on my plate right now) and will post up results for folks to see.
 
used letus and brevis should come in around that much. I got my adapter and a 50mm 1.8 for $500. The rails I sniped on ebay for $140.

I went canon FD mount, because thats what came on the used letus I bought. Nikon, seem more popular. The nice thing about the FD is I can put an FD adapter on a nikon lens.. (cant do the other way)
 
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