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Depth of Field with an XL-1

I don't play with cameras. But, I own an XL-1 so I thought I'd give it a try.

Does anyone know SPECIFICALLY how to gain DOF with the Canon XL-1? What are the settings etc...

I can't be more specific, because I have no idea of what I'm doing.

Nothing like being informed. :)
 
You'll be working with the stock Canon lens--which isn't that great--so you'll have to use some trickery...or technique...to achieve DOF. The XL1 lens is an 'infinite focus' lens...meaning everything tends to be in focus.

There are two ways I know how to do it.

1) Place the camera farther away from the subject, and zoom in on the subject. This should put the BG out of focus.

2) Use post production software to blur the edges or background.

Without a lens or adapter...you're not going to be able to create shallow DOF.

Bare in mind, I'm an actor not a DP or Camera Op.
 
I don't own an XL-1, but there are certain laws of physics that apply to all photographic lenses. Depth of field for any given shot is determined primarily by two factors: lens length and f-stop.

For the shallowest depth of field (subject in focus, background/foreground blurred) use your longest lens (or telephoto optical zoom setting) and your smallest f-stop (which translates to the largest iris opening).

For the widest depth of field (everything in focus) use your widest angle lens and largest f-stop (smallest iris).

Your f-stop range is determined by the given lens with which you are shooting. Generally, the larger the lens diameter, the faster the lens (i.e., the less light is needed).

If you are trying to create a narrow depth of field on a bright, sunny day and your longest lens is not doing the job, check to see if your camera has built-in neutral density filters. My Canon XH-A1 has two of them. Apply those if available. If that still doesn't do the job, you can purchase ND filters that attach to the filter mount on your lens.
 
For really detailed ND light control... stack 2 polarizers together and you can dial in the amount of ND you want, allowing you to keep the iris open to keep the DoF Short. It's a cheat and not really well used, but it's kinda neat physics :)
 
I'm going to have to play with your examples, thank you.

I did manage to do it to a certain extent, and then I lost it.

I've put the one DOF shot I took of my cat in a neat little video. The video is primarily of a MPG (looks good extremely small) of a squirrel eating a pumpkin. He and his friend eventually ate the whole thing.

The DOF shot is the opener, it's 1:38 set to T-Rex's Woodland Bop.

If you want to check it out it's at -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QeAm9aTPFFY
 
Exposure at F1.8 and zoomed in a bunch, then back up til you get the frame you're looking for. Lots of distance between the background and your subject. This is the magic formula.
 
I'm currently working on a script where a majority of the scenes are outdoors and set in the woods.

My backyard is going to be where a majority will be shot.

I get the DOF within an extreme CU. But, if I want a full body shot is DOF possible? If I'm 75' away and the actors are another 20' from the woods, will this work? I don't have humans to try it out on. Everyone I know works for a living. I'm the only unemployed bum.
 
find a long fence...

plant the camera 10' from one end with the fence on an edge of the frame stretching off into the distance on the other edge of the frame.

Focus as far out as possible and have someone walk the fence until they enter focus... this is the "hyper focal distance"... The point beyond which everything is in focus.

If your subject is nearer than this, you can focus closer and make the background go out of focus.

Know these distances so you can do setups faster when they count due to the fact that you've tested your distances.
 
Test shoots will answer so many questions for you in a craft where most of us are visual people... Asking the questions (as I had done many times before) only brings more questions. The only thing that really answers them is to get the camera out and just step through the settings. From one end of the spectrum to the other. See how they affect stuff in distance and stuff through time.

The fence is just a visual indicator, you could also use a tape measure or a piece of string... fences are just convenient as they take less setup.
 
Here is an example of some DoF work with my XL2 using stock 20x video lens:

http://www.vimeo.com/4554196

Wait till 35 seconds to see a nice rack focus. There is also some more DoF stuff I think.

I have since bought a LetusXL to experiment with but DoF is certainly not out of the question for stock video lenses. Just go wide open and get to the optimal distance.
 
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