Anything I need to know before shooting?
- Thread starter ngmfilms
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thanks for your reply
i have colour negative film 200T7217
Id like to know about light. If I shoot outside is it all ok, then inside i have to put sheets over the lights dont i?
also when i press record is it instant or does it take a second to get going.
also dont i just shoot a colour card if i want it telecine?
i have colour negative film 200T7217
Id like to know about light. If I shoot outside is it all ok, then inside i have to put sheets over the lights dont i?
also when i press record is it instant or does it take a second to get going.
also dont i just shoot a colour card if i want it telecine?
Sounds like you at least need to pick up a book called "The Filmmaker's Handbook" and read it first. There is way too much to know if you have never done this before. You can certainly just point and shoot, but at least get an exposure meter. Indoor lights have different colors depending on the type, so there is no one gel that you can apply unless you know the original color temperature.
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Also sounds like you'll want to take a reel of the film and run some tests on it. Film a clock with a sweeping second hand to see how much delay there is, test different lighting scenarios...outdoor is different than indoor (color balance and speed {grain size} of the film). When finished with the reel, get it developed and see how the footage ended up.
T = balanced for 3200k Tungsten
D = balanced fpr 5600k Daylight
That means if you have T, it will shoot fine under normal (ie not cool white) tungsten bulbs or halogen worklights, but if you shoot daylight then it will need to be filtered.
Vice Versa if you have daylight balanced film.
If you are not going to get it telecined then what are you going to do with it?
That expense is why most of us are cutting our teeth on DV rather than in the extremely expensive world of film. Most of us would enjoy working with film, but the hassle and cost makes it prohibitive for learning from the ground up.
Tests are very important to learning this craft. The cost of running a reel for testing purposes, when weighed against the cost of screwing up all of the reels from your shoot is actually quite minimal.
I was going to make a fake film trailer, what would it look like if i didnt get telecined? (all yellow right?)
If I shoot in daylight with a T balanced film I then need a daylight filter that goes over the camcorder lens right.
My camcorda says Lens c-8
9-45mm 1:14 marcro
So i need a 45mm daylight filter right?
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Well, remember you are going to shoot negative. So it won't just have the base layer yellow to it, it will be a negative.
I have projected a negative from 16mm before and although you can check certain elements, it is impossible to check for perfect focus or perfect exposure in that environment.
Now an option for you could be to shoot reversal film.
If you do that, what you shoot is then a positive rather than a negative. The downside is it also is VERY high contrast, which means you need to be right on the marks as far as exposure goes.
It is also less expensive to buy than neg and you could do your own poor-mans-telecine with a video camera.
But again, I cannot stress how accurate you need to be with exposure.
My short, High Fire Danger! was shot on reversal B&W and while it was the perfect aesthetic decision, you can clearly see a loss of detail in complex latitude areas (areas where there is shadow and sunlight). This removes one of the huge advantages negative film has over video is the latitude to capture detail.
Think of it this way:
If you shoot with tungsten balanced film, the white point is set to 3200 kelvin. That means if you use a halogen work light as your image will have white light. That means you need to bring down the white point of daylight or flourescent or whatever is your light source above 3200k to 3200k. So if you are outside, use a 85B filter to accomplish this.
http://www.adorama.com/Search-Results.tpl?op=searchresults&searchinfo=85B&comparison=wa&sf=Price
If you are using daylight film and want to shoot using 3200k sources such as an incandescent bulb lamp or halogen work light, you would use an 80A filter. This has the reverse effect, which converts 3200k light to 5500k.
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ive just looked up what telecine means i thought it was cine films colour correction. But its transfer to video.
now i know why so lad was goin on about its telecine and i was saying its transfer.
Yeah im going to transfer it to minidv.
well thanks for your help.
theres only really 1 more questions ive got.
is film any good with green screen. ive heard its bad because the end image is soft you cant get a good keying.